Hallo rijders,
Ik heb een geniaal boek gekocht over rijtechniek.
Het heet:
"PRO MOTOCROSS & OFF-ROAD MOTORCYCLE RIDING TECHNIQUES"
van Donnie Bales in samenwerking met Gary Semic. Deze laatste is zelf een motocross- en supercross pro geweest en heeft een motocross-school en heeft bijvoorbeeld Jeremy McGrath gemaakt tot de rijder die hij nu is.
Het is een Amerikaans boek (en dus Engelstalig) waarin aan de hand van foto's en tekst alle facetten van motocross- enduro- en offroadrijden worden behandeld. Veel grote namen op motocross gebied hebben meegewerkt aan het boek.
Ik ben het nu aan het lezen terwijl ik niet kan rijden (motor nog niet gefixt) en ik kan niet wachten tot ik deze technieken kan gaan uitproberen.
Ik heb het gekocht op amazon.com en het was zo'n €16,50 ex verz.kosten
Is er iemand anders die dit boek kent? Graag je ervaring...
Wanna ride like a pro?
Moderator: ghulst
klinkt interssant, maar ik denk dat je het toch het beste leert om gewoon zoveel mogelijk rondjes te rijden.
Maar het zal ook zeker wel bijdragen aan snellere vooruitgang in de motorsport.
Zo'n trainingschool lijkt me wel wat om een kleer mee te maken. Zal wel ergens in Spanje of Frankrijk zijn
gr JBW
Maar het zal ook zeker wel bijdragen aan snellere vooruitgang in de motorsport.
Zo'n trainingschool lijkt me wel wat om een kleer mee te maken. Zal wel ergens in Spanje of Frankrijk zijn
gr JBW
Ik heb het boek ook al een tijdje. Ik vond dat ik met rijden alleen toch niet genoeg bijleerde, had het gevoel dat het met het bochtenwerk nog altijd niet goed ging, en wist niet waaraan het lag.
Daarom heb ik het boek gekocht, en ondertussen gaat het beter. Of tenminste, ik weet wat ik fout doe
Ik zou het best nog eens herlezen want het is een tijdje geleden. Bedankt om me eraan te herinneren!
Helen
Daarom heb ik het boek gekocht, en ondertussen gaat het beter. Of tenminste, ik weet wat ik fout doe
Ik zou het best nog eens herlezen want het is een tijdje geleden. Bedankt om me eraan te herinneren!
Helen
Beter een slecht karakter dan geen karakter
welke heb jij want er zijn volgens mij 2 versies.
op amazon staan er nmlk. 2
en is hij ook in nederland te koop
Ben stiekem toch wel geinteresseerd
op amazon staan er nmlk. 2
en is hij ook in nederland te koop
Ben stiekem toch wel geinteresseerd
-
- Berichten: 2183
- Lid geworden op: do jun 06, 2002 16:54
- Locatie: In de buurt van Arnhem
- Contacteer:
Ik heb ooit aan zo'n crossweek meegedaan, leer je superveel van!!!! (van carlo hulsen , toen met o.a. erik eggens etc etc etc)Jan Bas Walhof schreef: klinkt interssant, maar ik denk dat je het toch het beste leert om gewoon zoveel mogelijk rondjes te rijden.
Maar het zal ook zeker wel bijdragen aan snellere vooruitgang in de motorsport.
Zo'n trainingschool lijkt me wel wat om een kleer mee te maken. Zal wel ergens in Spanje of Frankrijk zijn
gr JBW
http://www.rw-racing.nl
KTM EXC300
KTM EXC300
Ik denk dat het boek bij veel rijders nuttig kan zijn omdat, zoals alle sporten, je zoveel nét verkeerd kan doen waardoor je het jezelf moeilijk maakt. Lichaamshouding etc....
Maar je moet het natuurlijk wel steeds stapje voor stapje uitproberen om je de techniek als natuurlijk aan te leren.
Maar er zullen best rijders zijn die alles van nature al goed doen maar zelf dan weet ik zeker dat je er wat van kan leren.
Op amazon zie ik zelfs 3 versies. Ik heb degene uit 2001 maar ik zie nu dat er ook al een uitgave is van 2004
Die is net zo duur...maarja...ik denk niet dat er veel verschil inzit.
Die uit 2004 heeft isbn-nr: 0760318026
Die ik heb heeft isbn: 0760308314
Op scheltema.nl zag ik ook een versie van dit boek (weet niet van welk jaar) maar die is €40,- !
Ik had hem uit de VS want volgens mij was dat toch het goedkoopst wel meer verzendkosten maar de boeken zijn goedkoper. Had hem samen met een PERFORMACE HANDBOEK van de zelfde uitgever gekocht. Hier heb ik nog geen mening over gezien ik hier nog amper in gekeken heb.
Maar je moet het natuurlijk wel steeds stapje voor stapje uitproberen om je de techniek als natuurlijk aan te leren.
Maar er zullen best rijders zijn die alles van nature al goed doen maar zelf dan weet ik zeker dat je er wat van kan leren.
Op amazon zie ik zelfs 3 versies. Ik heb degene uit 2001 maar ik zie nu dat er ook al een uitgave is van 2004
Die is net zo duur...maarja...ik denk niet dat er veel verschil inzit.
Die uit 2004 heeft isbn-nr: 0760318026
Die ik heb heeft isbn: 0760308314
Op scheltema.nl zag ik ook een versie van dit boek (weet niet van welk jaar) maar die is €40,- !
Ik had hem uit de VS want volgens mij was dat toch het goedkoopst wel meer verzendkosten maar de boeken zijn goedkoper. Had hem samen met een PERFORMACE HANDBOEK van de zelfde uitgever gekocht. Hier heb ik nog geen mening over gezien ik hier nog amper in gekeken heb.
zou dat boek ook te koop zijn op de motorrai
daar wil ik nlk naar toe morgen
daar wil ik nlk naar toe morgen
-
- Berichten: 42
- Lid geworden op: vr okt 01, 2004 13:39
- Locatie: antwerpen
voor nog tips om beter te rijden kun je ook even bij de how to's zien
tis een pak goedkoper dan een boek uit de vs te halen
tis een pak goedkoper dan een boek uit de vs te halen
there ain't no hill to high
Voor wie het boek niet heeft (geldt ook voor mij) zijn onderstaande tips van de site van motocross action magazine interessant. Jullie redden je wel in het Engels! Gaat over rijtechniek en mentaliteit! Interessant..
Graag jullie mening!
Meer tips vind je op http://www.motocrossactionmag.com/ridingtips.asp
BE FASTER BY NEXT WEEKEND
Have you stagnated? When was the last time your riding improved? What would you give to be faster by next weekend? Fret no more! The MXA wrecking crew offers you ten quick and easy ways to be faster before your next race.
TIP ONE: THE JOHN FORCE APPROACH
Too many riders patty-cake around a track. They think they are going fast, but they aren’t. How can you tell if you are a pantywaist rider? Take this simple test: When another rider tries to pass you, do you dig down deep, twist your right wrist and give it everything you’ve got? If you do, then you have been dogging it for most of the moto. You shouldn’t have any speed left in your machine, wrist or lungs to put up a fight. If you do, you aren’t trying hard enough.
Experts say that 75 percent of riders grip the throttle in such a way that they cannot twist the throttle to the locks without dropping their elbows. To fix this, hold the throttle the same way you would a door knob. And be sure that every time you turn the throttle the slide hits the stops.
TIP TWO: THINK BIG THOUGHTS
Don’t divide your local track into 15 turns and seven jumps. A track is not 22 different obstacles, but one continuous circuit. Try to string two or three straights and turns into one well-thought-out maneuver (and eventually the complete track into one integrated racing line).
Plan ahead! Look ahead. Don’t fixate on a whoop, jump or corner. Keep your head up and ignore trouble that you have already hit. Start thinking like a race car driver instead of a stunt man.
TIP THREE: TALK TO YOURSELF
You’d be surprised to find out how many AMA National riders talk to themselves during a race. It is an effective racing tool. Try it. Talk out loud! Tell yourself to turn the throttle wide open, yell for more brakes, demand a tighter inside line and don’t worry about sounding crazy—no one can hear you.
Thinking good thoughts is nice, but transferring those subconscious ideas to the conscious level (known as verbalization) is the best form of positive reinforcement around.
TIP FOUR: TEN FIRST TURNS
Every rider gives it his all in the first turn. Then, he gives about 95 percent to turn two, 90 percent to turn three and so on. Imagine how fast you could go if you thought every turn was the first turn!
Don’t fall into the trap of gradually going slower. Give every turn the first-turn treatment. Think holeshot into every turn.
TIP FIVE: IT’S A TEN-SECOND WORLD
It doesn’t take a rocket scientist to realize that your typical 15-minute moto breaks down into a few precious seconds of hard-core, head-to-head racing. Most of the 15-minutes is spent chasing, holding your own or marking time. The true-to-life racing boils down to those few second when you are passing or being passed!
If a guy chases you for six laps, you are in no danger of losing your place until he gets close enough to actually make a move. Your whole race could boil down to the ten-seconds in which he tries to pass you. If you defeat him during that ten-second period, he might never make a second attempt. Thus, a savvy rider will marshal all of his psychic power for those ten critical seconds when under attack. If you nullify your opponent’s ten-second attack, the remaining 14 minutes and 50 seconds won’t seem so tough. Fight when it counts and not until it does.
TIP SIX: DON’T TOUCH THAT SHIFTER
Your bike is faster in third gear at half throttle than wide open in second gear. Think about that! The best gear on any motocross bike is third gear. It can be lugged fairly low (with a little clutch work) and revved fairly high. Try to gear your bike so that you are in third gear most of the time.
Don’t downshift unless it can’t be avoided. Use the clutch to feather the bike out of turns in the highest gear possible. Try to carry speed—not make noise.
TIP SEVEN: WATCH AND WALK
Walking the track has fallen out of favor with lots of young riders, but it can make the difference between winning and losing. It never hurts to walk the track before practice, but it is even more important to try to walk it (and watch it) during the motos that precede yours. Never assume that the line that everyone is using is the best one. The best line may be 20 feet farther to the outside or even through the middle of the big mud hole that everyone is avoiding. How can you tell? Walk the track, kick the dirt, try to coax a rider into using your selected line and think creatively.
TIP EIGHT: WEIGHT THE OUTSIDE PEG
The hardest place to make up time is on flat, hard, dry and slippery turns. Everybody is sliding around, and, in fear of spinning out, they back off the throttle to get traction. But, you can go through flat turns faster if you know the secret—weight the outside peg.
As you enter a flat turn, concentrate on putting weight (pressure) on the outside footpeg. As the bike is leaned into the turn, your body provides counter pressure to the outside of the bike to load the suspension and flex the sidewalls. The best way to weight the outside peg is to place your knee against the tank and press down hard.
TIP NINE: GO FAST IN THE EASY PLACES
Don’t fall into the "pace" theory of racing. Too many riders set a good pace and try to hold it. But, unfortunately, pace is contagious and doesn’t differentiate between rough straights and smooth straights. Avoid pacing yourself! Go as fast as you can go on the majority of the race track and faster than you can go on the easy parts. Burn up the simple parts. Come out hard and go in hot. Push yourself beyond the limits when you aren’t in any danger (to do otherwise would be slow).
What if you burn out because you pushed too hard too soon? So what? Push even harder next week. In time you’ll get stronger, burn out later and, eventually, you’ll be in good enough shape to go flat out for the whole moto. If you don’t pour it on, you’ll never get stronger.
TIP TEN: THE CHEAPEST HORSEPOWER AVAILABLE
Before you spend your hard-earned cash on pipes, port jobs, race gas and hot ignitions, buy a sprocket. Gearing is the most effective hop-up trick known to man. Get your gearing low enough to pull a strong second gear start, tall enough to avoid being tapped out before the end of the longest straight and balanced enough that you are in third gear most of the time.
Most stock gearing is too tall (by at least one tooth and sometimes two). Try to make most of your gearing changes with the rear sprocket.
Here are some gearing tips: (1) You gear a bike "down" by adding teeth to the rear sprocket (or reducing them on the countershaft sprocket). (2) You gear "up" by reducing the number of teeth on the rear sprocket or adding them to the countershaft sprocket (as a rule of thumb, one tooth on the countershaft is equal to 3.5 teeth on the rear).
Graag jullie mening!
Meer tips vind je op http://www.motocrossactionmag.com/ridingtips.asp
BE FASTER BY NEXT WEEKEND
Have you stagnated? When was the last time your riding improved? What would you give to be faster by next weekend? Fret no more! The MXA wrecking crew offers you ten quick and easy ways to be faster before your next race.
TIP ONE: THE JOHN FORCE APPROACH
Too many riders patty-cake around a track. They think they are going fast, but they aren’t. How can you tell if you are a pantywaist rider? Take this simple test: When another rider tries to pass you, do you dig down deep, twist your right wrist and give it everything you’ve got? If you do, then you have been dogging it for most of the moto. You shouldn’t have any speed left in your machine, wrist or lungs to put up a fight. If you do, you aren’t trying hard enough.
Experts say that 75 percent of riders grip the throttle in such a way that they cannot twist the throttle to the locks without dropping their elbows. To fix this, hold the throttle the same way you would a door knob. And be sure that every time you turn the throttle the slide hits the stops.
TIP TWO: THINK BIG THOUGHTS
Don’t divide your local track into 15 turns and seven jumps. A track is not 22 different obstacles, but one continuous circuit. Try to string two or three straights and turns into one well-thought-out maneuver (and eventually the complete track into one integrated racing line).
Plan ahead! Look ahead. Don’t fixate on a whoop, jump or corner. Keep your head up and ignore trouble that you have already hit. Start thinking like a race car driver instead of a stunt man.
TIP THREE: TALK TO YOURSELF
You’d be surprised to find out how many AMA National riders talk to themselves during a race. It is an effective racing tool. Try it. Talk out loud! Tell yourself to turn the throttle wide open, yell for more brakes, demand a tighter inside line and don’t worry about sounding crazy—no one can hear you.
Thinking good thoughts is nice, but transferring those subconscious ideas to the conscious level (known as verbalization) is the best form of positive reinforcement around.
TIP FOUR: TEN FIRST TURNS
Every rider gives it his all in the first turn. Then, he gives about 95 percent to turn two, 90 percent to turn three and so on. Imagine how fast you could go if you thought every turn was the first turn!
Don’t fall into the trap of gradually going slower. Give every turn the first-turn treatment. Think holeshot into every turn.
TIP FIVE: IT’S A TEN-SECOND WORLD
It doesn’t take a rocket scientist to realize that your typical 15-minute moto breaks down into a few precious seconds of hard-core, head-to-head racing. Most of the 15-minutes is spent chasing, holding your own or marking time. The true-to-life racing boils down to those few second when you are passing or being passed!
If a guy chases you for six laps, you are in no danger of losing your place until he gets close enough to actually make a move. Your whole race could boil down to the ten-seconds in which he tries to pass you. If you defeat him during that ten-second period, he might never make a second attempt. Thus, a savvy rider will marshal all of his psychic power for those ten critical seconds when under attack. If you nullify your opponent’s ten-second attack, the remaining 14 minutes and 50 seconds won’t seem so tough. Fight when it counts and not until it does.
TIP SIX: DON’T TOUCH THAT SHIFTER
Your bike is faster in third gear at half throttle than wide open in second gear. Think about that! The best gear on any motocross bike is third gear. It can be lugged fairly low (with a little clutch work) and revved fairly high. Try to gear your bike so that you are in third gear most of the time.
Don’t downshift unless it can’t be avoided. Use the clutch to feather the bike out of turns in the highest gear possible. Try to carry speed—not make noise.
TIP SEVEN: WATCH AND WALK
Walking the track has fallen out of favor with lots of young riders, but it can make the difference between winning and losing. It never hurts to walk the track before practice, but it is even more important to try to walk it (and watch it) during the motos that precede yours. Never assume that the line that everyone is using is the best one. The best line may be 20 feet farther to the outside or even through the middle of the big mud hole that everyone is avoiding. How can you tell? Walk the track, kick the dirt, try to coax a rider into using your selected line and think creatively.
TIP EIGHT: WEIGHT THE OUTSIDE PEG
The hardest place to make up time is on flat, hard, dry and slippery turns. Everybody is sliding around, and, in fear of spinning out, they back off the throttle to get traction. But, you can go through flat turns faster if you know the secret—weight the outside peg.
As you enter a flat turn, concentrate on putting weight (pressure) on the outside footpeg. As the bike is leaned into the turn, your body provides counter pressure to the outside of the bike to load the suspension and flex the sidewalls. The best way to weight the outside peg is to place your knee against the tank and press down hard.
TIP NINE: GO FAST IN THE EASY PLACES
Don’t fall into the "pace" theory of racing. Too many riders set a good pace and try to hold it. But, unfortunately, pace is contagious and doesn’t differentiate between rough straights and smooth straights. Avoid pacing yourself! Go as fast as you can go on the majority of the race track and faster than you can go on the easy parts. Burn up the simple parts. Come out hard and go in hot. Push yourself beyond the limits when you aren’t in any danger (to do otherwise would be slow).
What if you burn out because you pushed too hard too soon? So what? Push even harder next week. In time you’ll get stronger, burn out later and, eventually, you’ll be in good enough shape to go flat out for the whole moto. If you don’t pour it on, you’ll never get stronger.
TIP TEN: THE CHEAPEST HORSEPOWER AVAILABLE
Before you spend your hard-earned cash on pipes, port jobs, race gas and hot ignitions, buy a sprocket. Gearing is the most effective hop-up trick known to man. Get your gearing low enough to pull a strong second gear start, tall enough to avoid being tapped out before the end of the longest straight and balanced enough that you are in third gear most of the time.
Most stock gearing is too tall (by at least one tooth and sometimes two). Try to make most of your gearing changes with the rear sprocket.
Here are some gearing tips: (1) You gear a bike "down" by adding teeth to the rear sprocket (or reducing them on the countershaft sprocket). (2) You gear "up" by reducing the number of teeth on the rear sprocket or adding them to the countershaft sprocket (as a rule of thumb, one tooth on the countershaft is equal to 3.5 teeth on the rear).
MOST WANTED: KTM 530 EXC-R